How was XF14 doing in terms of coma, sharpness and light gathering, do you have any sample pics? Isn’t 10-24 too slow because of F4?
Milky Way over the desert in western Texas
Nope, 10-24 is not too slow because you can up the ISO and use long exposure times.
Milky Way over the Atlantic in OBX
Hm, I have a stupid question. What’s coma? Is it a shortie for cromatic abberation?
No, it’s short of COMAtic aberration - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coma_(optics)
@takesuspete what exposure times you use for both? The 10-24 on your insta looks actually quite darker.
The 14 mm one was taken @ f2.8/15 secs, the 10-24 one @ f4/30 secs. In LR the 10-24 actually looks to be the lighter, brighter one but YMMV.
I’ve been around the block with the 10-24, the 18-55, the 35 1.4, the 23 1.4, and after all of that I almost never reach for anything other than my Rokinon (Samyang) 12mm F2. It is practically made for Astro, with all manual everything and the combo of a super wide FOV and fast aperture. I don’t have many samples of my other lenses, because the only shots I end up editing and publishing are from the Rokinon 12. It’s that much better than the others. Here are a few shots I’ve taken with it in the past year, some of which were picked up by BBC Travel and Korean Air (so you know it shoots at a high enough quality for major publications).
I’ve pushed it as far as 30s with minimal star movement in the corners (depending on how close the MW center I’m shooting) but it’s sweet spot appears to be 25s. ISO ranges from 1600 to 3200, but I think 2000-2500 yields the best results. For my particular lens it seems that a stop point about 1cm right of the infinity bracket is the best focal point for stars.
I love being able to set all of this up inside my tent/car before I even get outside. That is something none of these other lenses can accomplish, even the 23mm 1.4 was too finicky to set up ahead of time.
Hope that’s helpful to those who are curious!
Superb photos all of you!!
May I ask why do you need to push iso so high?
(Sorry if it’s a dumb question)…
ISO ranges from 1600-3200 are often necessary to capture the Milky Way with any detail. The galaxy center, while brighter than the rest of the band, is still very faint (it is almost 25,000 light years away after all). Essentially capturing the Milky Way is all about gathering as much light as possible, thus you use the widest aperture a lens has, the longest exposure time you can manage without star movement, and the highest ISO you can get away with.
Hope that’s helpful!
Great pics Kevin, I like them a lot, especially the one with the tent. Do you use median stacking for noise reduction?
Also, in terms of ISO, because Fuji cameras are ISO-invariant, I usually shot at ISO 800 when I use the Rokinon 12mm and then adjust the exposure in post (although for xf56 I go 6400) . In my opinion, it gives more flexibility and better colours overall.
OK thanks a lot both of you for the details about exposure needs.
I now understand that longer exposure would bring star movement then higher iso is needed.
Should try that kind of photos once
Great pictures and work!
I have used a bunch of lenses for night photography and all of them were pretty good, with some issues here and there, but nothing you can’t work around.
Rokinon 12mm f2: one of the most well-known astro lenses, it’s pretty good even at f2. I usually shoot at f2, 30s, ISO 1600-3200. Samples:
Fujifilm 16mm f1.4: this one has a lot of coma from f1.4 until f2. That was a disappointment and I ended up selling it and getting the Rokinon, but the lens is stellar for other applications. I used to shoot it at f2, 20s, ISO 1600-3200.
Recently I got a tracking mount, so that opened up more possibilities. The 56mm f1.2 was surprisingly good. Below it’s a picture made with that lens, stitched from 4 tracked shots at f2, 2 minutes, ISO 800.
For this shot of part of the Orion constellation, I didn’t have the time to get all the shots needed for a really nice image (usually you need to get hours of total exposure), but I was happy with what I could get with only 5 shots of 2 minutes, ISO 400, also at f2:
I also shot tracked with the Fujifilm 55-200 and it behaved nicely. I got closer shots of the Orion Nebula and the Andromeda Galaxy at 200mm, with tracked exposures of 1-2 minutes. Obviously, a faster lens would be much better, but I was positively surprised. (haven’t processed these though)
If you have any questions, fire away!
Great shots man! The star trailing one and the first one with the trees are my favourites.
Btw. I’m quite interested in a tracking mount myself, which one do you have ?
I got the iOptron Skyguider Pro. It works great, no complaints.
My first option was the Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer, simply because it’s been on the market for more time, so it’s easier to find opinions on it, but it was out of stock everywhere. The Skyguider Pro is basically a copy of that one.
I also do some astrophotography. I use my Samyang 12mm f2 wide open and i love the result. As i live in mid atlantic, milkyway core is visible at summer, so i will try to climb to Azores highest point with 2351mt and try something environmental with few moonlight too.
Oh, by the way, i also use my trusty X100S for some astro!
Some of my pictures on links below:
Wow love the 2nd one… Stunning !
I have done very little as to astrophotography, but any Milky way even if is bad it is a awesome subject to spend the time taken pictures of it.
I usually use the fuji 18mm f2, or rokinon 8mm.
the 18mm gets ragged on alot online, but it is my absolute favorite focal length and lens on the fuji system.
Here are some sample images ive taken with it
Wow - properly inspired - thanks for sharing all. I’ve got a samyang 12mm f2 (rebranded rokinon/what they call it as here in the UK)
I went out with it a few years back locally - here’s a shot of the local lighthouse (Beachy head, near Eastbourne, UK) looking over the cliffs - there’s a lot of light pollution, and I still don’t really know what I’m doing post-processing wise really.
ISO 3200, f2, 15 sec, edited in Lightroom.
I am definitely going to go out and try shooting high ISO astro again, find some good tutorials online for editing/technique and will post if I get anything good.
What tutorials / settings do you currently use for astro? Do you weight your tripods down?