Hi, I'm Junhan from Melbourne, Australia


#1

Hey Everyone!

Thanks for having me here @zellersamuel. A bit about myself - I’m a Graduate of Architecture, so photography is something I do on the side. I have always been shooting Fujifilm - from the X20 to the X-Pro 1 (which I had been using until last week) and now really recently finally upgraded to the X-Pro 2. I am currently residing in Melbourne, Australia.

I normally use my Fujifilm cameras with adapted lenses (nothing against Fujifilm Lenses - I do own them), I just have an obsession with collecting old lenses and shooting in manual focus, since I shoot quite a bit of 35mm and 120mm (medium format) film as well. I’ve mostly shot street photography but am experimenting more with portraiture after getting a bit bored with street, since the beginning of this year.

Fun fact - I made it as a finalist in this year’s EyeEm Photo Awards (2017) in The Streetphotographer category, shooting an X-Pro 1 and a $30 adapted Minolta lens. I have found that combination to work extremely well.

You can find me on Instagram @jhfxxng and browse my portfolio on my website www.jhfoong.com


#2

Hi there!
Looking forward to tips and trick in using adapted lenses, especially with older Fuji such as X-Pro 1 which only have white focus peaking (kind of hard to see).


#3

Welcome and huge congrats on the eyeem awards !

Dominik


#4

Thanks Dominik! hope you are doing well.


#5

The X-Pro 1 is a camera which has been deemed as ‘frustrating’ by most of its reviews, however I’ve found nothing but joy in shooting it. It took a while, but after I understood all its quirks and limitations it works almost flawlessly (other than the inability to change peaking colour).


#6

Could you share more these?


#7

what would you like to see??

I have more images on my instagram.


#8

I meant in working out/maximizing the use of the X-PRO 1…


#9

Oh right. Treat it like shooting a film camera (if you are familiar with it), other than the fact that the medium is different (digital) and you have the added benefit of different modern conveniences.

Learn how to read light - so don’t use auto ISO (just keep your ISO at a set number, just like it would be on film, so… 100, 200, 400, 800, etc. I would go no higher than 1600 (some occasions 2500 max) on the X-Pro 1 anyway. Learn how each ISO works in relation to the corresponding shutter speed + aperature combination. After a few goes you will start to learn how to read light and you will instinctively set your aperature and shutter speed to the correct combination even before you lift your camera to your eye.

On that note, while you can use Aperature Priority (whether with native or third party manual lenses), I would, again, treat it like using a film camera and set manual shutter speeds with the dial (so, not on A mode). This means that you are taking away the camera’s ability to think and calculate the shutter speed needed to give the exposure you want in your scene, and while you may think this is counter intuitive, I find the XPro-1 sometimes takes a bit longer to figure out what shutter speed it needs before it fires. So cut out the middle man and decide for it, that way you know your speeds are always exactly what you need them to be.

When street shooting learn how to zone focus (there are many tutorials on this). It really helps when you are adapting a vintage/film lens as it gives you a scale to better visualise what I am talking about. Essentially you are guessing the distance of your subject and you are making sure you are shooting at with a deep enough area of focus (f8 is your magic number) to compensate for any human error. This cuts out the camera needing to autofocus for you, i.e. you will not have instances where you think “dammit it, the camera focused on the wrong thing!” because you will have no one to blame but yourself.

And lastly of course, have your focus peaking on. Shame the colour cannot be changed, but this is kind of just the last layer in just confirming what you have is in focus. Although with some practice you will confidently know what is in focus depending on where your body is positioned to your subject and you will learn to slowly cut out second guessing yourself (which happens a lot in the beginning!)


#10

Thank you for the write up.